Exclusive reportage and photographs by Alessandro Parodi e Gilberto Borri. Contact us: paraless@libero.it, gilberto.borri@unito.it.

Tuesday, September 6, 2011

Bazungu

Four days after leaving Kampala we finally managed to find a working network, so here we are again. Many things have changed since in the capital we took the bus to Kasese, and we already feel part of the warm community of Ibanda.
The long travel of Saturday (more than seven hours by bus, not considering almost two hours idle in town  before the mean of transport would leave) has enabled us to observe the astonishing environment of the country, helped by a very kind geography lecturer met on board. Short before reaching our destination we pass through the Western Rift Valley, which differently from the best known Kenyan one is characterized by a luxurious and green landscape. Around us we can see wild animals like impalas, gnus and elephants, while the autobus passes along the lakes Edward and George.
Before the end of the exhausting day it's needed a break in Kasese, where is supposed to be waiting for us our interpreter, that instead we are not going to see before the day after. Long searches lead us, thanks to the help of the young Morris, to solving a troublesome accident occurred to one of our cameras, but in the meantime it's already night. Finding a way to reach the slopes of the Rwenzori chain is not easy, and the only boda boda (two wheels cabs) drivers still around profit of the situation and of the colour of our skin to raise de price of their work.
At night we reach Ibanda, welcomed by father Richard. At once we get in touch with the local folks, having the possibility of intertaing an interesting conversation with a seminarian from Bwera, nearby Congo, Baluku James, that will become a trustful friend and a constant source of valuable informations. The day after, accompained by the sounds of the local mass, appears our interpreter, Baluku Benson, and we start planning our research. First of all we join Benson at the burial ceremony of an important and respected man, attended by hundreds of people. We are welcomed by the relatives and even announced by the speakers, then we are sent to the side of the wazee (old men and important people) for having lunch after the ritual.
Once solved some little problems we start with the research. The first interviews let us meet two old and respected members of the community, the birth attendant of Ibanda and a traditional healer, who are happy to share with us their knowledges helping us in understanding many aspects of the Konzo culture.
It's funny the response of some local boys and girls (as the already mentioned James) to the listening of some European songs, as the behaviour of the kids that point us as bazungu (plural of muzungu, meaning "white, foreigner") and are astonished by the presence of hair on our arms. We do the same marveling at situation that for the Bakonzo are familiar, as the presence of goats and pigs along the ways, or the use of foods for us completely new: some examples are the boiled matokes and the cassava flour, which comes from a white coloured tuber.

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